A late afternoon summer thunderstorm over Johannesburg, typical of the highveld climate, seen from the far north of the city. Joburg’s original city centre can be seen in the middle, on the far horizon, while the newer Sandton CBD is in the nearer distance, towards the left. (Ryanj93 / CC BY SA 4.0)

Click graphic to enlarge.

South Africa’s long coastline – some 2,800 kilometres – influences much of the climate. On the west coast is the cold Atlantic Ocean, and the warmer Indian Ocean on the south and east.

Starting at the hot and arid desert border with Namibia in the northwest, South Africa’s coastline runs south  down the cold Skeleton Coast, around the Cape Peninsula to Cape Agulhas. This is the southernmost tip of Africa, said to be where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. In fact, it’s here, slightly offshore, that two coastal currents meet, currents that determine the different coastal climates. The cold Benguela current sweeps the west coast, and the warm Agulhas current the east.

From Cape Agulhas the coastline moves east and slowly northwards, and the climate becomes warmer and wetter. The Western Cape’s pretty green Garden Route gives way to the forested Wild Coast in the Eastern Cape, and then humid subtropical KwaZulu-Natal coast, famous for its beaches. In the northeast, the coast reaches the border of Mozambique.

Running along most of the coast is a narrow low-lying strip of land, which soon gives way to a higher plateau – the Great Escarpment. The high altitude of South Africa’s interior means the country is generally much cooler than southern hemisphere countries at the same latitude, such as Australia.

 Sun and rain

Late afternoon sunshine falls on quiver trees in the dry scrubland of the Northern Cape. (South African Tourism / CC BY 2.0)

Data source: South African Weather Service

South Africa is famous for its sunshine – an average of 2,500 hours of sun every year. It’s a dry country, classified as semi-arid. The average annual rainfall for the whole of South Africa is about 464 mm. The world average is about 860mm.

Most of South Africa gets rain only in the summer. The region around the Cape Peninsula, including Cape Town, has a Mediterranean climate: cold and miserable rain in winter, balanced by glorious clear-sky summers. But Cape Town is most famous for its relentless year-round wind, which blows from either southeast or the northwest.

KwaZulu-Natal’s coast and areas of the Mpumalanga lowlands get warm rain all year.

The great inland Karoo plateau, where rocky hills rise from scrubland, is dry, and gets drier in the northwest towards the Kalahari desert. It’s a region of extremes: very hot in summer and icy in winter.

The eastern Karoo gives way to the flat landscape of the Free State, which gets a little more rain.

The highveld region north of the Vaal River is wetter, with milder weather and less extreme subtropical heat. Johannesburg lies at 1,740 metres above sea level, and has an annual rainfall of 760 millimetres. Winters on the highveld are cold, but snow is rare.

Further north and east the highveld drops down into the lowveld. Temperatures rise, and the land turns to typical bushveld, the habitat of South Africa’s wildlife.

South Africa is in the southern hemisphere, so midwinter is in the middle of the year and high summer in December and January.

Spring – September, October, November

In the early spring, flowers bloom across the arid landscape of the Namaqualand region of the Northern Cape. (South African Tourism / CC BY 2.0)

Click graphic to enlarge.

In spring South Africa warms up from the top down. It quickly gets very hot in the far north province of Limpopo, and the desert regions of the Northern Cape and North West.

The southwest stays cold and wet well into spring, typical of its Mediterranean climate. The coast in the south and west gradually gets more rain, and humidity rises.

In the rest of the country the weather gets pleasantly warm and sunny, before the summer rains begin.

The rains, generally mid-afternoon thundershowers, start in about mid-October.

Summer – December, January, February

Rain clouds build up over farmland in the Magaliesberg region of North West province towards the end of a warm summer’s day. (Storm Signal / CC BY SA 2.0)

Click graphic to enlarge.

Over much of South Africa, summer means warm, sunny weather – often with afternoon thunderstorms that clear quickly, leaving a warm and earthy smell in the air.

The arid regions of the central Karoo and Northern Cape get very hot, with some relief in more rain. Northern Limpopo and KwaZulu-Natal are also often exhaustingly hot.

The Northern Cape – a province of weather extremes – gets the hottest weather, and the temperature records. In 1948 the mercury hit 51.7°C (125°F) in the Kalahari near the town of Upington.

The high altitude of the interior plateau keeps average summer temperatures below 30°C, so summer is warm without being oppressive.

Summer is the season of rain in most of South Africa, changing much of the country from khaki to green. It’s mostly warm rain, delivered in short and drenching storms. The Cape Peninsula in the southwest is the exception, staying clear-skied and sunny all through summer.

Autumn – March, April, May

The vineyards of the Constantia wine estate near Cape Town show their autumn colours. (Tim Snell / CC BY ND 2.0)

Click graphic to enlarge.

In autumn South Africa’s weather comes into its own. The days are still long and warm, getting chillier – but still brisk and sunny – in the early morning and evening.

The rainy season comes to an end in autumn, leaving the skies clear and the sun shining. By May most of South Africa has settled into its dry season, which will last through winter and well into spring.

Autumn comes at the end of the dry season on the Cape Peninsula, thanks to the region’s Mediterranean climate.

Here the autumn weather is beautiful, with hot sunny days and warm, balmy nights. It’s only in May, a month from winter, that the rains begin again.

Winter – June, July, August

Winter snow on the mountains surrounding the Hex River Valley in the Western Cape. Mountain snowfall generally means freezing conditions across the rest of the country. (Mary Alexander / CC BY SA 4.0)

Click graphic to enlarge.

South Africa’s winter is mostly pleasant sunny weather with cloudless blue skies, punctuated now and then by a few days of cold fronts.

In the high interior plateau winter days are dry and sunny, with clear skies and crisp air. The nights are chilly. Temperatures only drop to freezing when a cold front sweeps in.

Cold fronts mean heavy snow on the mountains of the Western Cape and Northern Cape, and on the KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg. When it snows on the mountains, icy weather quickly spreads to the rest of the country.

The coldest place in South Africa is the Northern Cape town of Sutherland, in the western Roggeveld Mountains. Here midwinter temperatures can drop to -15°C (5°F).

The Western Cape gets all of its rain in winter. The winter weather in Cape Town is always cold, wet and unpleasantly windy.

By contrast, the hot, humid KwaZulu-Natal coast, and the lowveld of Mpumalanga and Limpopo provinces, offer lovely winter weather with still, sunny and warm days.

Researched and written by Mary Alexander.
Updated July 2025.
Comments? Email mary1alexander@gmail.com

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In 1990 Nelson Mandela and Oliver Tambo reunited after three decades apart – the first in prison, the second in exile. (University of the Western Cape Robben Island Mayibuye Museum Archive, courtesy of GCIS)

“Mandela and Tambo” read the brass plate on the door of the attorneys’ shabby offices in downtown Johannesburg. It was late 1952, four years after the National Party victory, and the two young partners of South Africa’s first black-owned law firm were busy.

“Mandela and Tambo was besieged with clients,” Nelson Mandela wrote in his autobiography Long Walk to Freedom, published in 1994. “We were not the only African lawyers in South Africa, but we were the only firm of African lawyers.

“For Africans, we were the firm of first choice and last resort. To reach our offices each morning, we had to move through a crowd of people in the hallways, on the stairs, and in our small waiting room.”

Oliver Tambo’s memories presaged Mandela’s. “For years we worked side by side in our offices near the courts,” he wrote in his 1965 introduction to Ruth First’s No Easy Road to Freedom. “To reach our desks each morning, Nelson and I ran the gauntlet of patient queues of people overflowing from the chairs in the waiting room into the corridors.”

• READ MORE: Nelson Mandela 1918-2013: the timeline of a lifetime

An exhibit at today’s Chancellor House Museum shows the famous 1952 photograph by Jürgen Schadeberg of Nelson Mandela inside the law offices he shared with Oliver Tambo. (Johan Wessels / CC BY SA 2.0)

Tambo and Mandela were highly educated young men, the products of independent missionary schools and the University of Fort Hare. They thought they knew what racial injustice was all about. But their experience of overflowing human misery in their cramped lawyers’ offices opened their eyes to the real suffering of ordinary people.

“Handcuffed blacks were arrested for being in white area illegally.” Ernest Cole describes this image from the 1960s in his book House of Bondage. (© Ernest Cole Family Trust / The Hasselblad Foundation)

Tambo wrote: “South Africa has the dubious reputation of boasting one of the highest prison populations in the world.

“Jails are jam-packed with Africans imprisoned for serious offences – and crimes of violence are ever on the increase in apartheid society – but also for petty infringements of statutory law that no really civilised society would punish with imprisonment.

“To be unemployed is a crime … To be landless can be a crime … To brew African beer, to drink it or to use the proceeds to supplement the meagre family income is a crime … To cheek a white man can be a crime. To live in the ‘wrong’ area – an area declared white or Indian or coloured – is a crime for Africans.”

Beginnings

Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela and Oliver Reginald Tambo met at Fort Hare in the 1930s.

The institution was renowned for producing leading African intellectuals for more than 40 years until its proud academic standards were gutted by the apartheid government in 1959. Govan Mbeki was a graduate, as was Robert Sobukwe, Dennis Brutus and Can Themba.

Fort Hare was the start of a partnership – as friends, attorneys and comrades – that would last 60 years.

Mandela would become South Africa’s most famous political prisoner and first democratically elected president, while Tambo joined the struggle in exile and served as president of the African National Congress from 1967 to 1991.

The Union Hall and gardens of the University of Fort Hare in 1930. (Wikimedia Commons)

The two had different memories of their first meeting. Mandela, always the sportsman, recalled it being on a football field. Tambo, a studious young man, remembered it as at a campus protest.

On Sundays, Mandela would venture out to teach bible classes at rural villages near Fort Hare.

“One of my comrades on these expeditions was a serious young science scholar whom I had met on the soccer field,” he wrote.

“He came from Pondoland, in the Transkei, and his name was Oliver Tambo. From the start, I saw that Oliver’s intelligence was diamond-edged; he was a keen debater and did not accept the platitudes that so many of us automatically subscribed to … It was easy to see that he was destined for great things.”

In 1965 Tambo wrote: “At the age of l6, Nelson went to Fort Hare and there we first met: in the thick of a student strike.”

Tambo recalled that he and Mandela were “both born in the Transkei, he one year after me. We were students together at Fort Hare University College. With others we had founded the African National Congress Youth League. We went together into the Defiance Campaign of 1952, into general strikes against the government and sat in the same Treason Trial dock.”

The landscape near the village of Qunu in the Transkei region of the Eastern Cape. Nelson Mandela was born in Mvezo village, but spent his childhood in Qunu. (Rodger Bosch, Media Club South Africa)

Life in Johannesburg

After Fort Hare, Tambo went on to teach maths at St Peter’s School in Johannesburg. The school was eventually shut by the Nationalist government because, like Fort Hare, it gave its black students a quality education.

“From this school, killed by the government in later years because it refused to bow its head to government-dictated principles of a special education for ‘inferior’ Africans,” Tambo wrote, “graduated successive series of young men drawn inexorably into the African National Congress, because it was the head of our patriotic, national movement for our rights.”

An aerial view of Johannesburg in the late 1940s shows a prosperous young city fed by gold mining. It doesn’t show the daily suffering and indignity of the black labour needed to mine the gold. (SA Ports and Railways Archive, View from Above)

Mandela, meanwhile, fled to Johannesburg from his Transkei home to escape an arranged marriage.

In the city, Tambo wrote, Mandela “had his first encounter with the lot of the urban African in a teeming African township: overcrowding, incessant raids for passes, arrests, poverty, the pinpricks and frustrations of the white rule”.

In Johannesburg both joined the ANC. They became part of a group of young ANC members who increasingly thought the organisation was not taking strong enough action to fight white rule.

The Youth League

Mandela wrote: “Many felt, perhaps unfairly, that the ANC as a whole had become the preserve of a tired, unmilitant, privileged African elite more concerned with protecting their own rights than those of the masses.” They proposed forming a youth league “as a way of lighting a fire under the leadership of the ANC”.

In 1943, a delegation including Mandela, Tambo, Anton Lembede, Peter Mda and Walter Sisulu visited Alfred B Xuma, the head of the ANC.

“At our meeting, we told him that we intended to organise a youth league and a campaign of action designed to mobilise mass support,” Mandela wrote. “We told Dr Xuma that the ANC was in danger of becoming marginalised unless it stirred itself and took up new methods.”

The ANC Youth League was formed in 1944 with Lembede as president and Tambo as secretary. Sisulu became the treasurer and Mandela was part of the executive committee.

The Defiance Campaign

The National Party victory in the white elections of 1948 came as a surprise to many – including Mandela. The stated election manifesto was overtly apartheid: cementing, legislating and extending black repression and white minority rule.

“The victory was a shock,” Mandela wrote. “I was stunned and dismayed, but Oliver took a more considered line. ‘I like this,’ he said. ‘I like this.’ I could not imagine why. He explained, ‘Now we will know exactly who our enemies are and where we stand.’”

The battle lines were drawn. The softer policies of negotiation and compliance with white leadership had achieved nothing. The next year, 1949, there was a jump in ANC membership, which previously had lingered at around 5 000. It began to establish a firm presence in South African society.

In 1952, Mandela and Tambo were key in organising the Defiance Campaign. The ANC joined other anti-apartheid organisations in defiance against the restriction of political, labour and residential rights, during which protesters deliberately violated oppressive laws. The campaign was called off in April 1953 after the apartheid parliament voted in new laws prohibiting protest meetings.

Arrest and exile

In June 1955, the Congress of the People, organised by the ANC and Indian, coloured and white organisations at Kliptown near Johannesburg, adopted the Freedom Charter. This became the fundamental document of the struggle. In the same year, Tambo became secretary-general of the ANC after Sisulu was banned under the Suppression of Communism Act.

In December 1956, Mandela and Tambo were among 156 leaders, key members of the Congress Alliance, arrested and charged with treason. They included almost all of the executive committee of the ANC, as well as the South African Communist Party, the South African Indian Congress, and the Congress of Democrats. A total of 105 Africans, 21 Indians, 23 white and seven coloured leaders were arrested.

The trial was to last until 1961, with the state gradually reducing the number of accused until all charges were eventually dismissed.

In 1958, Tambo became deputy president of the ANC. But in 1959 he was served with a five-year banning order. Tambo was sent abroad by the ANC to mobilise opposition to apartheid. In 1967, he became president of the ANC after the death of Chief Albert Luthuli.

In the year after Tambo’s exile, 1960, came the Sharpeville massacre. The ANC leadership concluded that non-violence was no longer the answer to the struggle against apartheid.

In 1961 the ANC army, Umkhonto we Sizwe (MK), was formed. Mandela was its first leader. MK operations in the 1960s mostly targeted government facilities. Mandela was arrested in 1962, convicted of sabotage, and in 1964 sentenced to life imprisonment on Robben Island.

Endings

“Nelson Mandela is on Robben Island today,” Tambo wrote in 1965.

He added:

His inspiration lives on in the heart of every African patriot. He is the symbol of the self-sacrificing leadership our struggle has thrown up and our people need. He is unrelenting, yet capable of flexibility and delicate judgment.
He is an outstanding individual, but he knows that he derives his strength from the great masses of people, who make up the freedom struggle in our country.

Tambo died in April 1993, a year short of South Africa’s first democratic elections in 1994. South Africa’s future was still uncertain.

Mandela gave the eulogy at Tambo’s funeral.

“Go well, my brother, and farewell, dear friend,” he said.

He added:

As you instructed, we will bring peace to our tormented land.
As you directed, we will bring freedom to the oppressed and liberation to the oppressor. As you strived, we will restore the dignity of the dehumanised. As you commanded, we will defend the option of a peaceful resolution of our problems. As you prayed, we will respond to the cries of the wretched of the Earth.
In all this, we will not fail you.

Researched and written by Mary Alexander
Updated July 2024

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